Journal of a Cruise Made to the Pacific Ocean …

It became necessary to take all our powder on shore, for the purpose of sunning and sifting it; and I discovered, to my great regret, that nearly one-third of that contained in casks was damaged and unfit for use, in consequence of the water having entered the magazine, either during our passage around Cape Horn, or (which is more likely) while our rudder coat was in a damaged state, off the coast of Patagonia. We were, however, enabled to get a considerable quantity from the Seringaptam, which (although it left that ship nearly destitute) in a great measure supplied our deficiency.

* At every place where we landed on the western side, we might have walked for miles through long grass and beneath groves of trees. It only wanted a stream to compose a very charming landscape. This island appears to have been a favourite resort of the buccaniers, as we not only found seats, which had been made by them of earth and stone, but a considerable number of broken jars scattered about, and some entirely whole, in which the Peruvian wine and liquors of that country are preserved. We also found some old daggers, nails, and other implements. This place is, in every respect, calculated for refreshment or relief for crews, after a long and tedious voyage, as it abounds with wood, and good anchorage for any number of ships, and sheltered from all winds by Albermarle [sic] Isle. The watering-place of the buccaniers was entirely dried up, and there was only found a small rivulet between two hills, running into the sea; the northernmost hill forms the south point of Fresh-Water Bay.

Colnet's Journal, page 156.

We met with great numbers of English mocking-birds, hawks resembling the falcon, a considerable variety of smaller birds, some resembling the small common sparrow, some not unlike the brown Canary-bird, the small black bird found in Charles' Island, and a black bird with a red breast. We saw but few seals, and the only aquatic birds we met with, were pelicans, boobies, and petrells. A few small snakes were seen, much resembling the common American striped snake, and a great number of lizards. In the bottom of the crater of the northern mountain, near the foot of which we landed, some of my sailors (who had been there in search of tortoises) informed me that they had found one barrel of fresh water contained in the hollow of a rock. This is the only fresh water we found on any part of the island, and it cannot be come at without the greatest difficulty and danger, which none would attempt to overcome but such as, like our sailors, had long been confined on shipboard; for, feeling all restraint removed while on shore, they delighted in making an extensive range, and in overcoming difficulties which to others seemed insurmountable. From this place we procured about seventy-five tortoises; but as the men had to bring them from a distance not less than three miles, and as the fatigue was excessive, this was the only time we visited it, as the parties which went to the nnortheastpart of the island were more successful, and gave a more favourable account of the facility of getting them down to the beach. They reported also, that there was every appearance of good anchorage on the northeast, in a bay not inferior in its appearance to the one we were then occupying. Mr. Adams, with his usual zeal, proceed to sound and survey it, and reported anchorage about half a mile from the shore, in 13 fathoms, sandy bottom. This bay was distant from where we lay about 18 miles; I gave it the name of Adams' Bay.

I proceeded to examine Fresh-water Bay, and Fresh-water Valley, as they are called by Colnet; in the former there are appearances of anchorage. We found great quantities of broken jars, such as the Spaniards transport their liquids in; a deep ravine, evidently formed by violent torrents; but it was perfectly dry, and had the appearance of having been long so. Three separate times I examined Fresh-water Valley, when we first arrived, and twice after showers of rain; but all my researches were ineffectual, although I traced the ravine of this place to the top of the mountain. While I was about embarking, I perceived three of four small birds, of the size of a sparrow, fluttering about a moist place, on the side of a cliff, over my head; and on further observation I perceived that the small birds of this description constantly resorted here for the purpose of sucking the moisture from the rock; and, by a closer examination, I discovered that beneath this place a small and rude basin had been formed in the rock, for the purpose of catching the drops of water, which perhaps at certain seasons of the year trickle down the side of the cliff. At the time I visited the place, the basin was perfectly dry; and I should not have known the purpose for which it was intended had not I noticed the marks of a pickaxe, or some other iron instrument, in the rock. Of these places captain Colnet, in his view of James' Island, gives the following description:

“Round the northeast point is a small bay, which I take for the one the buccaniers call Fresh-water Bay, in which were many of their traces such as old jars, &c.; also ground cleared away, either as a platform for guns or to land stores, &c.; but the water since then has taken a different course, and falls between two hills, and runs over a little clift of rocks into the sea.”

“As soon as the ship was secured, I set out with Mr. Sharp to search for water in Fresh-water Bay, where the buccaniers had formerly supplied themselves, but the surf prevented us from landing. We rowed close to the beach, but saw not the least signs of any spring or rivulet. Boats were dispatched from both vessels to different parts of the shore, and my chief mate was sent away to the south for a night and a day. On the following morning, at the dawn of the day, the whaling-master was ordered to land if the surf was fallen, and search Fresh-water Bay. He accomplished getting on shore, but found no water; in the evening the chief mate returned with the same account of his unsuccessful errand. For my own part, I never gave up my opinion, that there was plenty of fresh water in the isle; but as neither of my boats were in a condition to encounter the least bad weather, I deferred taking a survey of the isle till they were repaired.” Colnet's Journal, page 153.

“These isles deserve the attention of the British navigators beyond any unsettled situation: but the preference must be given to James' isle, as it is the only one we found sufficient fresh water at to supply a small ship.” Colnet's Journal, page 158.

It seems from captain Colnet's account, that his principal motive for going to James' Island was to accompany an English ship called the Butterworth, commanded by Mr. Sharp, whom he accidentally met off Banks' bay in distress for want of water; and that he persuaded Mr. Sharp to proceed to this place, where he was confident he would procure a supply; but as he did not find it immediately on his arrival, he sent the Butterworth daily supplies of that article, which produced a consequence captain Colnet little apprehended, for from that moment Mr. Sharp neglected to look for water. Captain Colnet, it seems, from civility to the owners of that ship, had determined to keep company with her during the voyage, and to give her only a monthly supply; and this information, it appears, stimulated Mr. Sharp to search for water, which he found within two miles of his ship. Now it seems extraordinary that the place where so important a discovery was made, should not have been pointed out by captain Colnet. I have, however, reason to doubt the correctness of his statement, as I have carefully examined James' Island for fresh water, and so have many others of my officers and crew, for at least 12 miles to the southward of our anchorage, and as much as 6 miles to the northward; indeed several have searched to the northeast 18 or 20 miles, and none of us yet have been able to discover any of that precious article, except the small damp place on the cliff at Fresh-water Valley, and the small quantity in the bottom of the crater of the aforementioned mountain. It is true, he might have arrived there after a long spell of rainy weather; but it seems it was in the latter part of April he arrived there, after cruising some time among the islands for whales; and if he had experienced so extraordinary a thing as heavy rains among the Gallipagos, I think he would have noticed it in some part of his journal. There can be no doubt, that, at some former period, small quantities of water have been procured from the place called Fresh-water Valley; and indeed the old captains of some of the captured ships have informed me, that they have been procured; and it rarely happens that this much can be gotten; then, when so inconsiderable a quantity can be obtained, how could captain Colnet so far impose on the world, as to hold out encouragement for vessels to stop there for water*?

* See the quotations from Colnet, page 219. [This reference is to the page in Porter's own book where these quotations appear, as seen in the paragraphs above. The asterisk in the next paragraph also refers to this footnote—JW.]

That the island affords water in the interior, there cannot be a doubt; but this can only be of service to the tortoises, whose patience and perseverance enable, and whose instinct teaches them to find it. But it certainly cannot be supposed, after what captain Colnet has said of Fresh-water Bay and Fresh-water Valley, that it was from either of those places that the Butterworth procured here supply, for it seems that an unsuccessful search was made there by captains Colnet and Sharp on the first arrival of the ships: they could not land on account of the surf; they rowed close to the beach, but saw not the least sign of any spring or rivulet. Boats were sent in different directions, and the mate and whaling-master of captain Colnet's ship were ordered on the search, but without success. Captain Colnet proceeded also himself on the search, and was equally unsuccessful with the rest; yet the captain of the Butterworth found it within two miles of his ship, and we are not informed in what direction! Where is the advantage of James' Island furnishing fresh water “sufficient to supply a small ship,” if we are ignorant where it is to be found? Surely captain Colnet could not have been ignorant of the importance of this information, and, as he not given it, I must take the liberty of doubting the correctness of his statement, page 153 of his journal.* However, he has committed so many errors in his description of this island, as well as in the chart he has drawn of the whole group, that in their multiplicity this single one might be passed over in silence, were it not for the deplorable consequences that might result to a whole ship's company, who, when short of water, should (relying on Colnet's statement) put into James' Island for a supply. To prevent the ill effects of information so calculated to mislead, I felt it my duty to point out the inaccuracy of the statement; and if it is true that the captain of the Butterworth obtained the supply of water mentioned, it was more the duty of captain Colnet to have particularized the spot, considering the object for which (as he informs us) he was sent into this sea.

I have now the painful task of mentioning an occurrence which gave me the utmost pain, as it was attended by the premature death of a promising young officer, whereby the service at this time has received an irreparable injury, and by a practice which disgraces human nature. I shall, however, throw a veil over the whole previous proceedings, and merely state, that without my knowledge they † met on shore, at daylight, and at the third fire Mr. Cowan fell dead. His remains were buried the same day in the spot where he fell, and the following inscription was placed over his tomb:

† Cowan's assailant was Lieutenant John M. Gamble, commander of the Marines in Porter's crew. His identity is given in an obituary notice in an 1815 Supplement to Volume VII of the Niles Weekly Register.—JW.

The United States frigate Essex arrived here on the 21st July, 1813, her crew much afflicted with the scurvy and ship-fever, which attacked them suddenly, out of which she lost the first lieutenant, surgeon, sailing-master, two midshipmen, gunner, carpenter, and thirty-six seamen and marines.

She captured in this sea the following British ships, to wit: Montezuma, Policy, Atlantic, Catharine, Rose, Hector, Charlton, Georgiana, Greenwich, Seringapatam, and New Zealander; but, for want of officers and men to man them, the four last were burnt; the Rose and Charlton were give up to the prisoners.

The Essex leaves this in a leaky state, her foremast very rotten in the partners, and her mainmast sprung. Her crew have, however, received great benefit from the tortoises and other refreshments which the island affords. Should any American vessel, or indeed a vessel of any nation, put in here, and meet with this note, they would be doing an act of great humanity to transmit a copy of it to America, in order that our friends may know of our distressed and hopeless situation, and be prepared for worse tidings, if they should ever again hear from us.

The British prisoners have been landed at Tumbez, sent to St. Helena and Rio de Janeiro.

The following is a list of the names of those who died as above mentioned, to wit.

(Then followed a list of 43 names.) †

† Porter does not include the list itself in any edition.—JW.

I now made the best of my way for Banks' Bay in company with my prizes, and fixed on the small cove inside of Narborough as a rendezvous for them in case of separation, as it now was my design to leave them there until I made a short cruise among the islands, in order to make myself acquainted with all their resources, and with the hope of falling in with some of the enemy's vessels. I had also the design of leaving instructions for lieutenant Downes at Charles' and Hood's Islands, similar to those left at James', that, in case he should fail in finding my letters in one place, there might be a chance of his finding them in another, and thus our meeting be rendered more certain.

U. S. Frigate Essex,    
Banks' Bay, 21st August, 1813.

Sir,

You will proceed to the cove with the Greenwich, and moor her agreeably to the instructions already given you. The crew of the Greenwich will be kept complete, for the protection of the other vessels, and, in the event of being attacked, you will call on the other prize-masters and their men to assist on board your ship; but it is expected you will only act on the defensive. Should I not appear in six weeks from the time of my leaving this, you will proceed for Valparaiso, in company with the Seringapatam, after the articles of value are taken from the New Zealander, and that ship is burnt. If, however, lieutenant Downes should appear before the expiration of six weeks from the time of my leaving this, you will please to deliver to him the enclosed letter, which contains instructions for the guidance of his conduct respecting the disposal of the prizes.

I must recommend your keeping constantly on your guard, with a look-out from a suitable point. Let the ships be ready for sea on the shortest notice, and suffer no guns to be fired, no fires at night, or any other practices by which you may be discovered.

Should I appear off with an English red ensign, hoisted union down, at the fore, you will send a boat on board the Essex. If the same signal is made at the main, it will be for the Seringapatam and New Zealander to send their boats for their crews, and you will please furnish them assistance for the purpose, if necessary. Should you leave the cove before I arrive, you will bury a bottle, containing a letter, in some suitable spot, near the landing-place at the head of the cove, and cut in the rocks immediately above it the letters S. X., in order that I may be enabled to find it.

I need not inform you how important it is that the prizes should not fall into the hands of an enemy. Your situation will render their destruction (in the last extremity) very easy. I would recommend to you to have as many boats, as may be necessary for the escape of their crews, in constant readiness for service, and a sufficiency of provisions and water, &c. &c. provided for them at the shortest notice; and, in the event of the necessity of taking to them, I would advise your proceeding to Charles' Island, as the most likely place of meeting with the Essex Junior, or Essex; and, in case you should not fall in with either, it appears the most likely place for you to take by surprise some British vessel. Trusting much to your discretion,

I have the honour to be,      
Very respectfully,            
Your obedient servant,
(Signed)               D. PORTER.

Lieutenant John M. Gamble, Prize-master of the ship Greenwich.

P. S. It is likely I shall be in the bay again in twenty or twenty-five days.

U. S. Frigate Essex,    
Banks' Bay, 21st August, 1813.

Sir,

You will proceed to the cove with the prize under your command, and moor agreeably to the instructions I have given you. When you have properly secured your ship, you will send on board the Essex all your crew, except the following, to wit: one quarter-master, one seaman, and two ordinary seamen, and you will give every aid in your power to lieutenant Gamble to protect the ships against any force that may attack them. Should you not hear from me in six weeks from the time of my leaving this, you will burn the New Zealander, after taking every article of value from on board her, and putting them on the Seringapatam, and assist with your crew in navigating her, in company with the Greenwich, to Valparaiso, unless the Essex Junior should arrive within that period, in which case lieutenant Downes will have instructions from me as to the disposal of the vessels.

Very respectfully,            
Your obedient servant,
(Signed)               D. PORTER.

Mr. John R. Shaw, Prize-master of the ship New Zealander.

Corresponding instructions were delivered to Mr. James Terry, prize-master of the ship Seringapatam.

U. S. Frigate Essex,    
Banks' Bay, 21st August, 1813.

Sir,

I have directed the prize-ships Greenwich, New Zealander, and Seringapatam to proceed to the cove, and there await my arrival six weeks from this date. I left letters for you at James' Island. I shall now proceed to Charles' Island, and from thence to Hood's Island, at both of which places I shall leave instructions for you. I intend to cruise a short time about Hood's and Chatham Islands. Should I not arrive at the cove by the 2d October, you may calculate that some accident has happened to me; and at the expiration of that period, you will take the prizes under your convoy, and proceed with them to Valparaiso, where you will pursue that course most likely to conduce to the good of the service.

I have the honour to be,      
Very respectfully,            
Your obedient servant,
(Signed)               D. PORTER.

Lieutenant John Downes, Commanding the
U. S. armed Prize-ship Essex Junior.

After getting clear of the sound, I stood out of the bay, and at twelve o'clock at night was off the south head of Albemarle; there I continued beating to get to windward until the 29th, without gaining much ground, on account of the prevalence of a rapid current setting to the westward. At length, however, the wind hauled to the southward, and enabled us to make Charles' Island on the 31st, where I sent my boat on shore, with a letter for lieutenant Downes, similar to that left at James' Island. On her return, I was informed that every thing remained as I had left it, there being no appearance of strangers having been there since my departure. We had had several showers of rain while in the neighbourhood of the isle, and, from the heavy clouds hanging over it, I had hoped to obtain there a supply, and gave directions that our former watering-places should be examined, but was informed that they were entirely dried up, not a drop of water remaining in the places where we had formerly obtained it. I now made sail for Chatham Island, running along to windward of Barrington Island, which appears bold and free from danger. Towards sunset, the man on the look-out cried out, a sail to the northwest! All sail was made in chase, but in a short time we discovered from the mast-head, by our glasses, that it was one of two rocks that lie off the north end of Porter's Island, which we have called Bainbridge's Rocks.† At night the weather became thick and hazy; and at ten o'clock, supposing myself nearly up with Chatham Island, I hove to, with the ship's head to the southwest; and in the morning the Kicker Rock, which lies off the mouth of Stephen's bay, bearing E.N.E., distant about 10 miles, I made sail for it, and at 9 A.M. anchored in Stephen's bay, in 12 fathoms water, sandy bottom, the Kicker Rock bearing W.½N., Dalrymple Rock S.W. by S., the west point of the bay S.W.½S., and the north point N.N.E. In running in, we passed to the north of the Kicker Rock, at the distance of two cables' length, and obtained no bottom with thirty fathoms of line.

† According to the map in Porter's second edition, the two rocks which he named Bainbridge's Rocks were in fact east of Porter's Island (the modern Isla Santa Cruz). These rocks are now named Gordon Rocks. Porter's original designation—now Rocas Bainbridge— has been applied to similar rocks off the east coast of Isla San Salvador.—JW.

This rock is very remarkable in its appearance, and is the surest mark for finding the bay. It is very high, flat on the top, and from some points bears strongly the appearance of a castle. On the western side the rock is split from the summit to the base, and the part detached stands like an obelisk on a very narrow base, and from its slender appearance seems as if ready to tumble down at every breeze. The bay is capacious, and well sheltered from the prevailing winds; there is good landing on several small white sandy beaches; and to the northwest of our anchorage is a small cove, which would afford good shelter for vessels not drawing more than 10 feet water. We found here sea turtle in the greatest abundance, and of a most excellent quality, of which we took on board as many as we could stow away, some of them weighing upwards of 300 weight. They were found always at low water, lying on the small sandy beaches below the rocks. We killed also a number of seals, the skins of which were very serviceable to us as mockasons, made after the manner of those of the North American Indians, and were a very good substitute for shoes, of which we began to stand in need. Our seamen converted them into caps, hats, and various other articles of use to them. We obtained there a large quantity of prickly pears, of a size far exceeding any I had hitherto met with; they were found on low trees, growing among the hard beds of lava which skirt the bay, and were gathered in quantities more than sufficient for the supply of the whole ship's company, some of them of the size of an orange, and nearly equal to that fruit in excellence. Their juice, when stewed with sugar, made a delicious sirrup, while their skins afford a most excellent preserve, with which we made pies, tarts, &c. We saw, in some small lagoons at the back of the beaches, teal and plover; but as I had forbid the use of fire-arms, in consequence of the scarcity of powder, we did not obtain any of them. Cray and other fish were found here in abundance, but we were not enabled to procure any tortoises, though there can scarcely be a doubt that an abundance of them are to be found on other parts of the island.

The vegetation on that part forming the bay, was entirely burnt up, and, with the exception of the prickly-pear trees, there was no verdure whatever for the support of animal life; and they were so situated among the sharp beds of lava, it would be impossible for the tortoises to approach them. We saw a few of their shells and bones; but they appeared to have been long dead. We were not enabled to make any progress into the interior of the island, on account of the great difficulty of walking, nor would I permit the boats in their search to go beyond the points of the bay, as I wished to be always prepared for getting under way at a moment's warning, and wished them to be within signal-distance; and indeed the great stock of tortoises we brought from James' Island, and the supply of turtle we had here obtained, left no room for adding to our stock, if we had found them. We saw here none of the land-guanas; and the only animals of the reptile kind we met with were a few lizards. Land-birds were very scarce; boobies, pelicans, and man-of-war hawks were in abundance.

We here procured an abundance of fish alongside with the hook and line, but were not enabled to procure more than fifty tortoises, and they small, but of a quality far superior to those found on James' Island; they were similar in appearance to those of Charles' Island, very fat and delicious. The vegetable productions were nearly the same as those of the other islands, and the island is evidently of volcanic origin, but it appears to have been a long time since it has suffered from their ravages. Few birds were found on this island, and they of the same description as those found on the others. We found a few lizards, but no snakes or guanas. We killed a few seals, and saw a number of turtle, but caught none; and on the most diligent search could find no fresh water. Wood is scarce, and what is to be found is very small and withered; and the whole island, and everything on it, appears parched up and famished for the want of rain.

And now having accomplished the main object for which I had come to this island, I determined to cruise for a few days to windward of it, with the hopes of falling in with him there; and I was the more strongly induced to do this, as I had for some time past been extremely harassed by being so much among those islands, our knowledge of which was as yet by no means perfect, and the rapid and irregular currents kept me in a constant state of anxiety, from which I was glad to be relieved for a short time. A fresh breeze springing up from the southward, which caused us to drift off the bank, I weighed the anchor, and stood on a wind to the eastward, keeping the island in sight from the deck, bearing west. Here I remained until the 13th September, when I ran down for Charles' Island, looking into Hood's Island, and searching for M'Gowen's Reef in my route, and can now with safety declare, that M'Gowen's Reef does not exist but in the chart of captain Colnet.†

† Porter is of course mistaken: McGowen's Reef (the modern Arrecife Macgowen) lies at approximately 90° W., 1°10' S. Despite Porter's claim that the reef does not exist, it appears on the map in his book.—JW.

Off the northwest part of Hood's Island, about two and a half miles from the shore, is a reef of some extent. It should be avoided. This is the only danger I could discover, and that lies so close in, and breaks with so much violence, that it may at all times be discovered in time to shun it. This, however, is not M'Gowen's Reef, which by Colnet's chart lies nearly half way between Hood's and Barrington Islands, and in the direct passage of vessels running down between Hood's and Chatham for Charles' Island; whereas the one I speak of lies close under Hood's Island, and is joined to it by other rocks.

The decks of this ship were full of the blubber of the whales they had cut in, but had not had time to try out. The captain informed me there was as much as would make from eighty to ninety barrels, and that it would require three days to try it out; but as I understood that it would be worth between two and three thousand dollars, I determined that it should not be lost. I therefore put on board a crew who had been accustomed to the whaling business, and placed the ship in the charge of Mr. Adams, the chaplain, with directions to try out and stow away the oil with all possible expedition; but that he might do it more conveniently, I directed him to bear up for the harbour where the other prizes lay, (which I have called Port Rendezvous,) and there I intended to run with the Essex; but the wind growing light, and having a strong current against me, I was not enabled to get abreast the harbour until ten o'clock at night; and not conceiving it prudent to run in, I stood through the sound into Banks' Bay; and this I was the more strongly induced to do, as lieutenant Gamble had come off in his boat to the Essex, and informed me that the look-out had reported that he had heard several guns to the northward the day before; and that, since my departure, a ship had appeared in Banks' Bay at three different times; but on comparing the dates of her appearance with the log-book of the Sir Andrew Hammond, it proved to be her. The guns I could not so well account for, nor could I for the appearance of a fresh whale carcase that had lately come into the bay; I therefore took a look in the offing, but, perceiving no vessels, I beat up for Port Rendezvous against a fresh land breeze, and anchored there in fifteen fathoms water, a little outside of all the prizes, being one and a half cable's length distant from each side of the harbour, and two and a half or three cables' length from the bottom of the port. I here moored head and stern, and lay perfectly secure from all winds. The officers and crews of the prizes, as may naturally be supposed, were greatly rejoiced to see me, as they were heartily tired of being confined to this most desolate and dreary place, where the only sounds to be heard were the screeching of the sea-fowls, and the melancholy howlings of the seals. Their rest was much disturbed the first few nights of their arrival there, but after that the seals abandoned their haunts; and even their absence was regretted, as their noise, disagreeable as it was, served to break in upon irksome monotony, which, for the want of occupation and amusement, became to them insupportable.

The Sir Andrew Hammond having an abundant supply, I hauled her alongside, and took from her as much beef, port, bread, water, wood, and other stores, as we required; and what was more acceptable to our men than all the rest, I took from her two puncheons of choice Jamaica spirits, which was greatly relished by them, as they had been without any ever since our departure from Tumbez; and whether it was the great strength of the rum, or the length of time they had been without, I cannot say; but our seamen were so much affected by the first allowance served out to them, that many were taken to their hammocks perfectly drunk; and indeed there was scarcely a seaman in the ship but what was in some degree intoxicated. To prevent a recurrence of a similar scene, I caused it to be considerably diluted, before it was again served out; this, however, did not prevent some from getting intoxicated, as the rum was such a rarity to them, and so far superior to what they had ever been accustomed to drink, that an allowance of it would command almost any price; and as several could not be effectually stopped, as I did not conceive it expedient to resort to rigid measures; for, considering the long time they had been deprived of it without murmuring, and the great propensity of seamen for spiritous liquors, and as no evil was likely to result from a little inebriety, provided they conducted themselves in other respects with propriety, I felt disposed to give them a little latitude, which in no instance was productive of unpleasant consequences, except one. James Rynard, a quarter-master, had belonged to the Essex four years, and had at times endeavoured to render himself of importance among his ship-mates, by placing himself at the head of all parties formed for the purpose of obtaining redress of grievances. At all complaints of short allowance of rum or provisions, or if any provisions were supposed to have been of a bad quality, Rynard was always engaged stirring up others to complain, but took care to conduct himself in such a manner as to let it be supposed, by the officers, that he was perfectly contented; nor did he dare, except at one time, to come forward boldly, and that was at the reduction of the allowance of rum on the coast of Brazils. He then supposed all hands to be of his disposition, and placed himself as a spokesman at their head. I had always marked him as a villain; that was his character with all that knew him; and at this moment, and with such a crew as I had reason to believe that Rynard might, from his habitual villany and restlessness, be induced to stir up discontent among them. It much be remembered, that their times had mostly expired; they saw no appearance of any intention on my part of returning to America immediately; and at such a moment the secret villany of Rynard was not to be despised. He had ever endeavoured to distinguish himself as their champion; and although I believed that he was considered by every man in the ship a notorious villain, still I did not know how far his influence might extend. I had, therefore, long determined to get clear of him on the first favourable opportunity. One was not long in offering itself. I had directed him to proceed to superintend some duty on board one of the prizes; he appeared a short time after I gave him the order, somewhat intoxicated, and insolently told me he had not been sent from the ship in a proper manner. Finding him not in a proper state, I directed him to stay aft on the quarter-deck until he was sober. He attempted, however, shortly afterwards, to rush by me. His dinner was taken on deck to him by his messmates; this he threw overboard in the presence of the officer of the deck, and at the same time demanded permission to go below; and while the officer of the watch was reporting to me his conduct, he left the deck. I then caused him to be confined there in irons, and as he had dropped some expressions respecting his time being out, and treated with derision (more by his actions than by his words) his confinement, I determined at once to discharge him. I therefore directed the purser to make out his accounts, and discharge and send him on board the Seringapatam, until we should arrive at some place where he could be put on shore. The discharge of Rynard produced an effect I little expected; it rendered every man in the ship sober, attentive, and active in the discharge of his duty, and assiduous to please; and those who, in the rum affair, had shown themselves more forward than the rest, now appeared desirous, by their good behaviour, to do away any unfavourable impression that their conduct might at the time have produced.

We obtained intelligence by them of the re-election of Mr. Madison to the presidency, and various changes in the different executive departments of the government, also the most satisfactory accounts of the successes of our navy, in every instance where our ships had encountered an enemy of equal force; and my letters from our consul at Buenos Ayres informed me, that on the 5th July the British frigate Phoebe, of 36 guns, and the Raccoon and Cherub sloops of war, of 24 guns each, accompanied by a storeship of 20 guns, had sailed from Rio de Janeiro for the Pacific ocean, in pursuit of the Essex. I also obtained intelligence that several British merchant ships were soon expected at Valparaiso from England, with valuable cargoes; and Mr. Downes informed me, that he had left one there richly laden, and on the point of sailing for India.

The only British whale-ship we could hear of on the coast was the Comet, a letter of marque of 20 guns; her guns had been taken from her by the government of Chili, in consequence of her having taken an active part in favour of the Peruvians; she was therefore laid up at Conception. She and the aforesaid ship at Valparaiso bound to India, and the English brig which I found there on my arrival, were the only British vessels that I could hear of on the coast of Chili and Peru; and as I believed it highly probable, that the ship bound to India would touch at the Marquesas on her way thence, I thought it likely, that, by a speedy arrival there, I should be enabled to catch her. There was none of the news I had received which could induce me to alter my original plan of going to the Marquesas; the repairs and smoking of my ship were paramount to every other consideration, and I knew of no place where I could be more likely to do it undisturbed.

The morning after the arrival of the Essex Junior, I hauled here alongside of the Essex, and took from on board her a quantity of rum and other articles; and now having nothing to detain us but a head wind, we made every preparation for getting under way, which we were not enable to do until the afternoon of the 2d of October, when a light land breeze sprang up, which we took advantage of to get out of the harbour; and as it soon after shifted to the southward, we were the greater part of the succeeding night in beating though the sound (which I call Decatur's Sound) into the south or Elizabeth Bay.

Prior to leaving the cove, Rynard wrote a penitent letter to me, begging me to overlook his conduct, and reinstate him on board the Essex; this however I would not consent to; but on his request, as well as that of lieutenant Downes, I agreed that he should join the Essex Junior in the capacity of seaman, on his promise that in future there should be no cause of complain against him.

The expence also of employing the frigate Phoebe, the sloops of war Raccoon and Cherub, and their store-ship, should also be taken into the estimate of the injury we have done them; for it is evident that they would not have been sent into the Pacific had it not been for the appearance of the Essex there, as for many years past they have employed no ships of war in this part of the world, nor were those sent until they had heard of our arrival at Valparaiso. Whether the said ships will succeed in doubling Cape Horn, or meet the fate of lord Anson's squadron, time alone will shew; at present, I shall merely take into my estimate the expenses of equipping and employing them for one year, which cannot fall far short of 250,000 dollars, which is more than probable will prove a dead loss to them, as the United States have now no commerce in this part of the world for them to annoy; and as they are reported to be dull sailers, it does not seem likely that they will succeed in their pursuit of the Essex, even if they should all keep together and fall in with here; and if they should cruise separately, they will have more to fear from out enterprize than we have to apprehend from theirs.

It appears by this estimate, that the balance against the British, occasioned by our coming into this sea, is 5,170,000 dollars; for there cannot be a doubt that all our whale-ships would have been captured, had we not effectually prevented it by the capture of all of theirs. It is true that we have, as individuals, been as yet but little benefitted by our captures; this consideration, however, has had but little weight with us; the object of the government is to injure the enemy; it derives no advantage from captures, however valuable they may prove; by our captures we have effected the object of government, and whether we sell or destroy them is of importance only to ourselves.

And now I am about quitting the Gallapagos Islands, perhaps for ever, and have shaped my course to the westward, let us compare our situation with that of lord Anson when he left the coast of Peru for China. I have already taken the liberty to touch on that subject at the time I passed the streights of Le Maire; the comparison was then greatly to our disadvantage. It has been seen what were our successes; our distresses are not worth mentioning; and the only evil now to be removed is the rats, which, although disagreeable companions (which it is necessary to remove), and occasion considerable havoc, are very far from rendering our situation a distressed one. Our supplies of every thing are equal to our wants for seven months; my prizes in company, which consist of four sail of fine ships, besides the Essex Junior, are equally well furnished; and our sick list is as follows:

Of the six ships of war with which lord Anson left England, having on board 1980 men, not including the two victualling ships that accompanied him, only two now remained, to wit: the Centurion of 60 guns, and the Gloucester of 50, the crews of both so sickly, and the latter ship in so disabled a state, as to make it necessary to destroy her soon after leaving the coast; and the united efforts of both crews were scarcely sufficient to manage the Centurion until she arrived at Tinian, where she remained near two months to recruit the exhausted health of her officers and men.

The estimate of the damage done to the enemy by the whole of lord Anson's squadron, agreeably to the estimate of the historians of that expedition, is supposed to be (including the treasure taken on board the galleon) about one million of pounds sterling; but as the galleon was not taken until the Centurion had put into China, and there received a complete outfit, the amount of the treasure found on board that vessel (which was supposed to be near half the whole amount) should be deducted, and the balance of 2½ millions of dollars will be the supposed injury done by his squadron on the coast of Chili, Peru, and Mexico, and the adjacent seas. This, however, is the estimate of Mr. Walter, chaplain of the Centurion, whose exaggerations in many instances have been proved by the accounts given of the places he visited by other navigators, and as he was evidently disposed to give the expedition as much éclat as possible, it may naturally be supposed that he has taken good care not to fall short in his calculations.

Lord Anson was compelled to destroy every vessel he took, because they were miserably wretched barks, unable to navigate even this mild and pacific ocean, as well as because he had not men to navigate them. On leaving the coast he had no trophies of his success to exhibit.

The case with us is different, as the list of prize-ships now in company will show.

All these vessels are copper sheathed and fastened, and in a state to proceed to the most distant part of the world, some of them remarkably fast sailers, and all superior ships.